Central Flinders Ranges: Wilpena Pound

Central Flinders Ranges: Wilpena Pound

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We are eager to see more of the Flinders Ranges and have our sights set on Wilpena Pound.  A pound is a circular valley surrounded by a rim of mountains, much like a volcanic crater. We had pre-booked the campground at Ikara-Flinders National Park and a rigid Covid check-in required us to list our previous 2-weeks lodging (all in SA thankfully). This is an extraordinarily beautiful place and for the Adnyamathanha (Aboriginal) people it is enormously sacred and significant.  The forested campground was only about a third full and the Park includes a “resort” with a lodge/pool/restaurant which must have been at capacity (mind you, that may only be 100 people). There is an IGA supermarket on site and we were told we didn’t need to stock up before arriving. It turned out to be quite small but still supplies the residents of Blinman, 50 km away! When we saw their inventory our first day we decided to shop right away and managed to buy what we needed for a few days, including wine; but pickings were slim and we got the last loaf of multi-grain bread and the last of the fresh milk.

Flinders Ranges Way is the main road from Hawker to Blinman and the only paved road in the area. The thinning traffic is a clear indication of how sparsely populated and visited this part of South Australia is.
Forlorn landscapes are becoming more typical as we travel deeper into the Flinders.
In those distant hills lies Wilpena Pound.
The approach to Wilpena is beguiling.
Entrance to the park where we clamp for 4 nights.
Our clampsite was set among a forest of cypress pine and eucalyptus. It was a reminiscent of camping at Lake Tahoe in California with a pervading piney scent. The red cliff above us is Mount Ohlssen Bagge which we summitted one day.
We thought the wildlife would be plentiful but sightings were so rare we were delighted to catch this roo gazing at us.
Signage was almost too conspicuous. What’s happened to cairns? Ahh, yes…it’s a national park and there are inexperienced hikers, too.
Creekside path through the Pound gap. This route is also used for park jeep tours (we saw none).
A leisurely walk our first day.
Indigenous artwork, pointing to the trail to Wangara Lookout.
Wilpena Pound is 17 KM long and 8 KM wide. It’s a crazy fact that Malta is 17 MILES long and 9 MILES wide. So no, Malta wouldn’t fit inside the Pound.
A rare sighting of the Vellas at Wangara Lookout with a view of Wilpena Pound.
Incredible trees grow out of massive rock in these parts.
One giant burl!
Unusually striped paperbark gum tree
We decided to try dining in the resort restaurant our last evening and booked the only available time-slot, 6pm. Despite the lack of atmosphere and table service, the room was bustling with lots of diners, every table spoken for. We ordered a bottle of red at the bar and were stunned that they were sold out! They agreed to sell us a bottle that was just over 1/2 full but it was tempting to tell them to just get one from the nearby IGA. Pictured here is their crispy fried saltbush and bush tomato cream cheese balls served with bush tomato relish. Saltbush is an edible native plant found in abundance in the desert. I also enjoyed a trio of sausages made from kangaroo, emu and camel.
One day we expected a big storm so when we woke to rain and wind it was too threatening for any more than a road tour.
Without a real plan we took a dirt road and before long the skies cleared and we discovered the perfect panorama for our lunch stop.
Wide Brachina Gorge is dry much of the year but turns wild with a heavy rain.
Debris collects when storm waters rage through Brachina Gorge. That boulder leaning against the tree is about the size of the burl in an earlier picture.
A wild goat sighting in the gorge.
One striking scene after another in the Flinders Ranges.
From the top of Mt Ohlssen Bagge
Summit of Mount Ohlsen Bagge 932 metres
The Old Wilpena Station was a working station for 135 years, mostly sheep. Today the site provides a tranquil window into the rich pastoral heritage of the Flinders Ranges.
The bookkeepers hut at the station
Pet cemetary at Wilpena Station
The flightless emu is native to Aus and the second-largest bird after the ostrich. They can travel up to 50 km per hour and can go weeks without food.
Following Wilpena we did two nights at Alpana Homestead, a farm stay that gave us a taste of a dinky-di sheep station. This one is a mere 60,000 acres and managed by the 6th generation of a local family.
The resident Kelpie, appropriately named Friendly, led us on a sunset hike around the station.
A hike to Blinman Pools along a 3-mile creek bed.
Loved the rock hopping through this creek bed to the pool.
The first Blinman Pool (we skipped the second as reports were it was dry).
This ridgeline is dubbed the Great Wall of China.
Ever-changing light makes for ever-changing scenery.
Even the foothills glow in the late afternoon.
The town of Blinman was so tiny (pop. 22) we coined the name “Blinkman” for it since you might miss it if you blink. Once a copper mining town they now offer underground tours to visitors. Fuel isn’t available here but it has a general store known as the Wild Lime Cafe that stocks with a handful of grocery items (the locals say they shop at the IGA in Wilpena for real food). The cafe also has good coffee and pastries plus a tiny art gallery. Business is brisk here in the mornings, at least by some standards.
The local pub is popular for lunch but when we popped in it was deserted. Our Alpana hosts said it has the best food for miles. I’m thinking it has the only food for miles.

 

15 thoughts on “Central Flinders Ranges: Wilpena Pound”

  2. This is a beautiful area Mary & Joe, which you captured really well with the different lights according to the time of day and weather.

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  3. Hi Mary and Joe! Especially loved the indigenous artwork for the Wangara Lookout!
    — jacque and don

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    1. Really nice scenes. We miss the walks here. It is too hot to go for a walk.
      Places we never saw and are not going to see.
      Love and miss you dear Mary and Joe

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  4. Hi Mary and Joe,
    You guys look terrific! Especially loved the indigenous scuplture pointing the way to the Wangara Lookout!
    –jacque and don

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  5. I’ve been binging on your trip entries since I somehow missed the notifications earlier. Looks like another wonderful Vella vacay. I love learning about Australia through your eyes and taste buds. I look forward to seeing more.

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    1. Hey, Jacki…been wondering where you were. Good to have you back in the armchair. But wait…you can travel in the US! Hope you have done some safe wandering.

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  6. Lovely pictures! Looks like lots of scenic walking trails. Mike uses walking sticks all the time now. Even on a sidewalk or paved road!
    Their indispensable on uneven surfaces.

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    1. I use them most of the time we do any serious walking. But even in European cities with cobbled streets they are helpful. I’ve been known to roll an ankle on a twig lately.

      Reply

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